挪威交响诗(十六)终结篇——游吟人生

阿克斯胡斯城堡眺望奥斯陆峡湾

阿克斯胡斯城堡(Akershus Castle or Fortress)是一个古老的建筑,具体建造年代不详,大概是1290年左右, 由国王哈康五世(King Haakon V)修建。从1300年左右建成起,哈康五世便将它作为皇家住所。后来又有多位国王、女王在此居住过。1624年奥斯陆大火后,国王克里斯蒂安四世下令按照意大利文艺复兴的样式将它重修,今天所见的城堡基本是重修后的样子。优越的地理位置使城堡成为直接控制奥斯陆港口的要冲,具有重要的战略价值,故有「谁控制了阿克斯胡斯城堡,谁就能统治挪威」之说。它第一次在战争中使用是1308年,当时瑞典公爵埃里克领军围攻城堡没有成功。1449年到1450年城堡再次被围攻,还是瑞典人,领军者为瑞典国王卡尔·库森·邦迪(Karl Knutsson Bonde),依然没有攻破。1502年,在丹麦国王麾下效力的苏格兰士兵进攻城堡,结果没有成功。1523年,瑞典军队再次进攻城堡,还是没有攻破,1531年到1532年城堡再次被丹麦军队进攻,依然没有被攻破。1567年瑞典军队又一次进攻城堡,就是没办法攻破。

遗憾的是没有被攻破的记录却被投降的纪录打破,第二次世界大战中挪威皇家和政府撤离奥斯陆之后,城堡守军向德国投降。后来德军将挪威反抗组织的被俘人士关押在城堡里,并在古堡处决其中人士。二战结束后,挪威将8名支持纳粹德国的叛国者关入城堡中的监狱审判并处决, 其中包括纳粹占领期中的傀儡总理维得孔·基斯令(Vidkun Quisling)。“基斯令”在挪威几乎是“叛徒”得代名词,他是一个汪精卫式得人物。其实他是一个有多重人格得人物,对哲学和科学非常感兴趣,竟然在那个时期就一直关注量子力学的最新发展。他试图将哲学和科学结合起来而形成Universism宇宙主义用以解释一切。

“临死前不久,他竟然说“我知道挪威人民已经判处我死刑。对我而言最简单的办法是我自己了断。但我想让历史审判我。相信我,10年后我会成为另一个圣奥拉夫(前面的篇章里我已经介绍了圣奥拉夫)。”

I know that the Norwegian people have sentenced me to death, and that the easiest course for me would be to take my own life. But I want to let history reach its own verdict. Believe me, in ten years' time I will have become another Saint Olav.

Quisling to Bjørn Foss, 8 May 1945, Dahl 1999, p. 367

然而至今历史还是认为他是“汪精卫“。

 

我们到达要塞时大概傍晚6点多钟,室内的展览已经关闭纪念二战抵抗运动的「挪威后方博物馆」和「武装部队博物馆」都没能进去,我们只能在要塞建筑外面参观塞的一部分还在被挪威军方使用,所以军营地区还是不得入内的。这里地势很高古老的大炮静静的呆在炮架上,炮口一致对着奥斯陆峡湾水道,当年的炮声恐怕只在挪威人的知识世界里回响,我闭目聆听,四下静悄悄的,没有声音。这里景观很好,值得一游。

9月5号早晨天气非常晴好,我首先来到奥斯陆的皇家宫殿。这个宫殿的历史不长,1849年建成,而当时并不是皇家的长久住所,直到哈康七世时才将此处为皇家长久居住地。现在的挪威国王哈拉尔五世及其家眷便住在此。皇宫内部不对外开放,但是它的周边可以参观皇宫后面有一个小公园,里还有一个带喷泉的小湖。皇宫前面,在马上的塑像是查尔斯十四世(Carl III Johan (Carl XIV Johan of Sweden,1763-1844),他是当时瑞典和挪威的国王,皇宫兴建者。他是法国人,原是一位拿破仑的元帅, 1818年被立为国王。雕塑的基座上刻有他的座右铭"Folkets kjærlighet - min belønning", “人民的爱是对我的奖励”。他便是那位击败丹麦,迫使挪威同瑞典结盟的国王,从士兵到国王,一位人生充满故事的人物,在此不多述。

从皇宫到易卜生博物馆距离不到2千米。我初中时就读过《玩偶之家》。不巧的是我到那里时它不开门,没能进去沾些伟大剧作家的灵气也是一大遗憾。

奥斯陆大教堂是奥斯陆第座教堂。第一座教堂是我们前面提到过的哈尔巴德教堂Hallvards Cathedral,建于12世纪。五百年之后座教堂建成不幸50年之后便被烧毁。今天所见到的奥斯陆大教堂是在被烧毁的教堂原址上重建一个新教堂,完工于1697年。这座教堂被挪威皇家挪威政府用来举办一些活动例如皇的婚礼。向来喜欢参观教堂,因为那里汇集着人类的财富和智慧结晶。教堂里有一个耶稣同12门徒的雕像,耶稣左手向前伸出,二指微张,其中加了一些小纸条,原来这些纸条都是许愿人放上去的,塑像边上有张小桌,上有笔和纸人们写许愿条,我入乡随俗,也写了我的愿望,放到了耶稣两指之间。我许愿“健康、和平、博爱、诗赋与我们同在”,如此为我挪威旅游画上了句号。

一个国家有其天成的地理条件,一个民族有其独特的历史文化,一个有世界公民情怀的人一定是有开放的胸襟,乐于吸纳知识,永远在寻求的路上。

我《挪威交响诗》的结尾是挪威国歌《是的,我们热爱这个国家》

Yes, we love this country》

比奧恩森(Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson前面介绍过)

Yes, we love this country

as it rises forth,

rugged, weathered, over the water,

with the thousands of homes, —

love, love it and think

of our father and mother

and the saga-night that lays

dreams upon our earth.

 

II

This country Harald united

with his army of heroes,

this country Håkon protected

whilst Øyvind sung;

upon the country Olav painted

with his blood the cross,

from its heights Sverre spoke

up against Rome. 

 

III

Farmers their axes sharpened

wherever an army advanced,

Tordenskjold along the coastline thundered

so that we could see it back home.

Even women stood up and fought

as if they were men;

others could only cry

but that soon would end! 

 

IV

Sure, we were not many

but we were enough,

when we were tested sometimes,

and it was at stake;

we would rather burn our land

than to declare defeat;

just remember what happened

down at Fredrikshald! 

 

V

Hard times we have coped with,

were at last disowned;

but in the worst distress, blue-eyed

freedom was to us born.

It gave (us) father's strength to carry

famine and war,

it gave death itself its honour –

and it gave reconciliation. 

 

VI

The enemy threw away his weapon,

up the visor went,

we, in wonder, to him hastened,

because he was our brother.

Driven forth to a stand by shame

we went to the south;

now we three brothers stand united,

and shall stand like that! 

 

VII

Norwegian man in house and cabin,

thank your great God!

The country he wanted to protect,

although things looked dark.

All the fights fathers have fought,

and the mothers have wept,

the Lord has quietly eased

so we won our rights. 

 

VIII

Yes, we love this country

as it rises forth,

rugged, weathered, above the sea,

with those thousand homes.

And as the fathers' struggle has raised

it from need to victory,

even we, when it is demanded,

for its peace will encamp (for defense).

 

附旅馆和大概行程信息

天数/旅馆

大概行程

1-Klubbgata 6, Stavanger, 4013 Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Klubbgata+6,+4013+Stavanger,+Norway/Norwegian+Petroleum+Museum,+Kjeringholmen,+Stavanger,+Norway/Fargegaten,+%C3%98vre+Holmegate,+Stavanger,+Norway/Valberg+Tower/V%C3%A5gen,+Stavanger,+Norway/Stavanger+Konserthus,+Sandvig%C3%A5,+Stavanger,+Norway/Stavanger+Cathedral/Breiavatnet,+4005+Stavanger,+Norway/@58.9724577,5.7286379,16z/data=!4m50!4m49!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a35361b8dfbd3:0xd8f0125f0f62410f!2m2!1d5.735072!2d58.9705569!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a354a79f7dbef:0xa0bcc3814fdddd9!2m2!1d5.7347514!2d58.973439!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a354a1162280f:0x24b164a10a482f65!2m2!1d5.7331278!2d58.9726883!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a354a29081ac5:0xd76744ea82bd1aac!2m2!1d5.7313055!2d58.9719488!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a354be1523631:0x4740667781000e1a!2m2!1d5.7280367!2d58.9722452!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a354d16cdc0ed:0x5ceeb3ec9e78ac45!2m2!1d5.7236122!2d58.9752675!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a3549e80ba47d:0x2ed8b659aee07789!2m2!1d5.7333716!2d58.9696!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a354825a179c1:0xf9506ae1eb99b2!2m2!1d5.7335638!2d58.9675861!3e2

2-Sauda Fjord Camping , sjoen 12 4208 Saudasjoen

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Klubbgata+6,+4013+Stavanger,+Norway/Pulpit+Rock,+4129+Songesand,+Norway/Sauda+Fjord+Camping+AS,+Sj%C3%B8en+12,+4208+Saudasj%C3%B8en,+Norway/@59.2990107,5.4705425,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m20!4m19!1m5!1m1!1s0x463a35361b8dfbd3:0xd8f0125f0f62410f!2m2!1d5.735072!2d58.9705569!1m5!1m1!1s0x463bd51bf654eb09:0x4a83e6bdbfa3b78b!2m2!1d6.1904396!2d58.98641!1m5!1m1!1s0x463bfee062b4ce13:0x1964a035bd05b704!2m2!1d6.3094936!2d59.6405449!3e0!5m1!1e4

3-Hordaheimen Hotel Best Western Plus Hotell Hordaheimen, C. Sundts gate 18, 5004 Bergen, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Sauda,+4200,+Norway/Etne,+Norway/Langfossen,+fj%C3%A6ra,+Norway/L%C3%A5tefossen+Waterfall/Odda,+Norway/Granvin,+Norway/Kvanndal,+Norway/Steinsdalsfossen,+Norheimsund,+Norway/Steinsdalsfossen/Best+Western+Plus+Hotell+Hordaheimen,+C.+Sundts+gate,+Bergen,+Norway/@60.004108,5.5117206,9z/am=t/data=!4m62!4m61!1m5!1m1!1s0x463bff0669b032e7:0x9913e8b5355bc4b1!2m2!1d6.3541435!2d59.6507178!1m5!1m1!1s0x463bf5ad19464955:0x25c08b79803d4b9f!2m2!1d5.9371946!2d59.6653462!1m5!1m1!1s0x463c036664fa4b5b:0xf4ef36ddefce6153!2m2!1d6.3394549!2d59.8455034!1m5!1m1!1s0x463ea6ce0dde1473:0x16e9f7f1d0bd1bae!2m2!1d6.5839604!2d59.9475982!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e9fe8c6ab2991:0xa2a0d97dc98b84f6!2m2!1d6.5462349!2d60.0691756!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e79209f00d315:0xbcfa12826fa597cc!2m2!1d6.719669!2d60.5244653!1m5!1m1!1s0x463dd5a25bf5403d:0xdcfa63b0b49c0895!2m2!1d6.6096505!2d60.4713004!1m5!1m1!1s0x463c3434e75731cb:0xd2238f6eaccfc9d1!2m2!1d6.104204!2d60.36933!1m5!1m1!1s0x463c343534cc79d7:0xcfbdfe770adfa0d7!2m2!1d6.1030028!2d60.3708694!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfc1cdb9d2efd:0xb35dd7990f0ed9d3!2m2!1d5.3182831!2d60.3958636!3e0

4-Winjum Apartments Aurland Stegastein, Bjørgavegen 17, 5745 Aurland, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/C.+Sundts+gate+18,+Bergenhus,+Bergen,+Norway/Torget,+Bergenhus,+Norway/Fl%C3%B8ibanen,+Vetrlidsallmenningen,+Bergen,+Norway/Bryggen,+Bryggen,+Bergen,+Norway/Bergenhus+Fortress,+Bergen,+Norway/Fishmarket+in+Bergen/Bergen+Cathedral,+Domkirkeplassen,+Bergen,+Norway/Grieg+Hall,+Edvard+Griegs+plass,+Bergen,+Norway/West+Norway+Museum+of+Decorative+Art/C.+Sundts+gate+18,+5004+Bergen,+Norway/@60.3942182,5.3252971,16z/data=!4m62!4m61!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfc1cdab5df3d:0x6f5da15b27b4dcce!2m2!1d5.3179811!2d60.3955956!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfea7dd704b13:0x386aba4bc54fbd83!2m2!1d5.3257142!2d60.3949275!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfea4b2a22d8d:0xd91d93b3a45e270a!2m2!1d5.3285645!2d60.3964198!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfc1d80be31e1:0xf278657d7d75232e!2m2!1d5.3245493!2d60.3975672!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfc1c28ac56a5:0xdf370f7577f13fb8!2m2!1d5.3185407!2d60.4000024!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfea7e7267061:0xca5264b221de2d38!2m2!1d5.3234758!2d60.3946421!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfea89662bfd9:0x79a51fe2f7539f28!2m2!1d5.3303395!2d60.3939276!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfea97cf2dc8d:0x6d306d8bd273b82!2m2!1d5.3282038!2d60.388862!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfea96831f3d1:0x2ad87130c4d799df!2m2!1d5.3241367!2d60.390681!1m5!1m1!1s0x463cfc1cdab5df3d:0x6f5da15b27b4dcce!2m2!1d5.3179811!2d60.3955956!3e2

5- Old town boutiqe apartments. 16 Øyragata 2. etasje, 6887 Lærdalsøyri, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Fl%C3%A5m,+Norway/Stegastein-+LOOKOUT,+5745+Aurland,+Norway/Vedahaugane,+5745+Aurland,+Norway/%C3%98yragata+16,+2.+etasje,+6887+L%C3%A6rdal,+Norway/@60.9820316,7.1514568,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m26!4m25!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e13cfcfc357c3:0x33286ff6aad510c5!2m2!1d7.1117849!2d60.8607716!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e172f19a17795:0xa574942af9270328!2m2!1d7.2125244!2d60.9082803!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e18cd87cddbbd:0x622bb5b47409ef05!2m2!1d7.3280739!2d61.0312864!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e20601c182cc9:0x79ee65249bc776b1!2m2!1d7.4789862!2d61.0979236!3e0

6-Westerås Gard Two-Bedroom Apartment
Vesterås, 6216 Geiranger

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/%C3%98yragata+16,+2.+etasje,+6887+L%C3%A6rdal,+Norway/Loen,+6789+Loen,+Norway/Gamle+Strynefjellsvegen,+Hjelledalen,+Norway/Dalsnibba,+6216+Geiranger,+Norway/Flydalsjuvet+view+point,+Geiranger,+Norway/Geiranger,+Norway/@61.7764152,6.9569463,9z/data=!4m38!4m37!1m5!1m1!1s0x463e20601c182cc9:0x79ee65249bc776b1!2m2!1d7.4789862!2d61.0979236!1m5!1m1!1s0x46167dc677c75c5d:0x407a583b56311c27!2m2!1d6.847844!2d61.871835!1m5!1m1!1s0x46142ded937f4071:0x34010b845f228ae2!2m2!1d7.342987!2d61.9542893!1m5!1m1!1s0x46142f40a3417555:0x549423995761ad3a!2m2!1d7.269322!2d62.0488015!1m5!1m1!1s0x4614277d33a5ed93:0x1fffeb2d0f93a5f8!2m2!1d7.2232182!2d62.0908496!1m5!1m1!1s0x4614266d0e317cc9:0xee5b40919d3f7313!2m2!1d7.2058941!2d62.1008441!3e0

7--Vikaneset Havhotell - Viking Harbour Hotel, Kjørvegen 31, 6520 Frei, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Wester%C3%A5s+Restaurant,+Gnr+121+Bnr+5,+Geirangervegen+320,+6216+Geiranger,+Norway/%C3%98rnesvingen+Viewpoint,+Stranda+NO,+Fv63+27,+6210+Sylte,+Norway/Alesund,+Norway/Atlantic+Ocean+Rd,+Vevang,+Norway/Kristiansund,+Norway/Kj%C3%B8rvegen+31,+6520+Frei,+Norway/@62.6069015,5.8644361,8z/am=t/data=!3m1!4b1!4m38!4m37!1m5!1m1!1s0x4614263fd7188007:0xee49b3892b5592e0!2m2!1d7.2164858!2d62.1009593!1m5!1m1!1s0x46142707c8241b95:0x80f4e4ef733a1e0d!2m2!1d7.1668859!2d62.1262992!1m5!1m1!1s0x4616da471047fb4b:0xe82562ee3bc08fea!2m2!1d6.1494821!2d62.4722284!1m5!1m1!1s0x46115e324798930f:0xefa67af027ab6918!2m2!1d7.3482933!2d63.0167738!1m5!1m1!1s0x4613db49feb63f81:0xda2799d4288ffec7!2m2!1d7.7280789!2d63.1103346!1m5!1m1!1s0x4613dcb1d642f47d:0x1900597338d66348!2m2!1d7.712564!2d63.0759447!3e0

8--Thon Hotel Nidaros, Søndre gate 22B, 7010 Trondheim, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Kj%C3%B8rvegen+31,+6520+Frei,+Norway/Thon+Hotel+Nidaros,+S%C3%B8ndre+gate+22B,+7010+Trondheim,+Norway/@62.9869671,7.9353031,8z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x4613dcb1d642f47d:0x1900597338d66348!2m2!1d7.712564!2d63.0759447!1m5!1m1!1s0x466d319c12b06e6b:0x17deff201f661410!2m2!1d10.3997397!2d63.4340282!3e0

9--Eliassen Rorbuer, Hamnøy, 8390 Reine, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/8392+Moskenes,+Norway/%C3%85,+Norway/Reine,+Norway/Hamn%C3%B8y,+8390+Reine,+Norway/@67.9130096,12.9866308,12z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m26!4m25!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de3b50449ce06d:0xa1f0df68e1efcfcf!2m2!1d13.0465365!2d67.9001872!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de24d039ef789b:0xce1dd0796b6ca657!2m2!1d12.9826432!2d67.8805614!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de3cbf60603ce7:0x82f2b236d153558f!2m2!1d13.0887329!2d67.9323866!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de3d0e4bf2a23b:0x9eb543d5054c7bb7!2m2!1d13.1318266!2d67.9453219!3e0

10---Lødingen Brygge, Sjøvegen 12, 8410 Lødingen, Norway

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/E10+14,+6+8390,+8390+Reine,+Norway/Ramberg,+8380,+Norway/Nusfjord,+8380,+Norway/Leknes,+8370,+Norway/Henningsv%C3%A6r,+Norway/Kabelv%C3%A5g,+8310,+Norway/Svolv%C3%A6r,+Norway/L%C3%B8dingen,+Norway/@68.2348765,14.2081336,9z/data=!4m50!4m49!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de3cc3dfefe4d9:0xc192bc955c8d644f!2m2!1d13.0891457!2d67.9389762!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de172610677329:0x4bd6e87854f0aa8d!2m2!1d13.2294736!2d68.0894483!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de142d40745e41:0xf5ee8a913d97c8d4!2m2!1d13.3478452!2d68.0353165!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de12acaf43485f:0x5c5fb3e75f9ff61d!2m2!1d13.6096372!2d68.1465068!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de7b093095bc5b:0xe0558a27f13f9017!2m2!1d14.2072536!2d68.1541872!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de7e47285474d1:0xd5d6fe44ea1306d6!2m2!1d14.477105!2d68.2103879!1m5!1m1!1s0x45de8022176f4351:0x8c20de9667b60f33!2m2!1d14.5682237!2d68.2343088!1m5!1m1!1s0x45dc119291688ca7:0xd035f3834eac547b!2m2!1d15.9943948!2d68.4141543!3e0

11--Clarion Collection Hotel With, Sjøgata, 9291 Tromsø

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Lodingen,+8410,+Norway/Sj%C3%B8gata,+9008+Troms%C3%B8,+Norway/@68.8816601,15.3512629,7z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x45dc119291688ca7:0xd035f3834eac547b!2m2!1d15.9943948!2d68.4141543!1m5!1m1!1s0x45c4c4533612999b:0xad1872d34b367ed2!2m2!1d18.9590454!2d69.6493949!3e0

12--Hotell Bondeheimen Kristian IVs gate 2 0159 Oslo

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Sj%C3%B8gata,+9008+Troms%C3%B8,+Norway/Europcar+Tromsoe+Airport+Langnes+(TOS),+Flyplassvegen+31,+9016+Troms%C3%B8,+Norway/@69.6611353,18.9535025,13z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x45c4c4533612999b:0xad1872d34b367ed2!2m2!1d18.9590454!2d69.6493949!1m5!1m1!1s0x45c4c4226da92459:0xf89afa8692322f55!2m2!1d18.9067961!2d69.6794035!3e0

13--Hotell Bondeheimen Kristian IVs gate 2 0159 Oslo

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Kristian+IVs+gate+2,+0159+Oslo,+Norway/The+Royal+Palace,+Slottsplassen+1,+0010+Oslo,+Norway/R%C3%A5dhuset,+Oslo,+Norway/Oslo+Cathedral,+Karl+Johans+gate,+Oslo,+Norway/The+National+Museum,+Brynjulf+Bulls+plass,+Oslo,+Norway/Akershus+Fortress,+Oslo,+Norway/Oslo+Opera+House,+Kirsten+Flagstads+Plass,+Oslo,+Norway/Munch,+Edvard+Munchs+Plass,+Oslo,+Norway/@59.9112557,10.7394376,15z/data=!4m50!4m49!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e7d0fe4ce49:0x18125946f5105943!2m2!1d10.7403481!2d59.9147087!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416dd779ba357b:0x677038c9acc2591c!2m2!1d10.7273769!2d59.9170428!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e87453aeae9:0xfae7a0c511ac7504!2m2!1d10.7336076!2d59.9125488!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e628755f369:0xb35270be6dddce4b!2m2!1d10.7464527!2d59.9126756!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e7c5399d139:0x436177565f549646!2m2!1d10.7292472!2d59.911506!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e866d647ed3:0xaa290cda332eedba!2m2!1d10.7370841!2d59.907586!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e8ba321f715:0x1cb6a7c6a2a2d611!2m2!1d10.7532798!2d59.9074576!1m5!1m1!1s0x46416e5bed844b27:0x653ef5922c5d121b!2m2!1d10.7557095!2d59.9061361!3e2






Beinan (2023-01-23 19:06:15)
才看到你的留言,要巴尔干旅行信息。不知怎样联系你。请到我的最新一集游记留言。http://www.overseaswindow.com/home/nodebody/37109/1815
Beinan (2023-01-27 19:25:37)
对不起。现在《文轩》的留言已不直接连到邮箱。你没有留下联络信息,无法和你联系。我在刚发的一集游记最后,放了一个我的微信码。请扫描加我到微信。如不行,请留下你的联络信息。
捷润 (2023-02-13 19:45:57)
多谢你, 我刚刚看到。已经加你的微信啦。